Retinol is a game-changing skincare product that is popular for its age-defying properties. There are lots of retinol myths out there, and it can be difficult to know what the best retinol product is, so we’re putting the myths under the microscope to dispel those rumours.
We’ll cover what you need to know about retinol, how to use retinol for skin conditions, what to do about retinol reactions, the best retinol cream or serum for you, and much more. Our Skin Experts recommend only the very best premium products, such as those from the ZO Skin Health retinol range, so if you want to know about all things retinol, you are in the right place.
At Face Dr, we aim to give you unbiased advice on the products you’re thinking of purchasing, so if you have questions about retinol myths, keep reading…
Here’s what we’ll cover:
- What is retinol and what can it do for my skin?
- Who would benefit most from using retinol?
- Myth #1: Stop using retinol if you experience redness or peeling
- Myth #2: Retinol, retinoid, retinal… they’re all the same!
- Myth #3: Retinol causes sun damage
- Myth #4: You need to use a lot of retinol to see results
- Myth #5: Retinol thins the skin
- Myth #6: People with sensitive skin shouldn’t use retinol
- Myth #7: The higher the percentage, the better the results
- What products in the Face Dr range contain retinol?
- Summary: Should I start using retinol?
What is retinol and what can it do for my skin?
Retinol is known as one of the best skincare ingredients to tackle skin concerns like acne, acne scarring, melasma and other types of hyperpigmentation, sun damaged skin, uneven skin texture or tone, and more. It is perhaps best known for its effectiveness in reducing and preventing the signs of premature ageing, namely fine lines and wrinkles.
It is extremely effective as an ingredient, with one study finding that after 4 weeks of use, participants showed an increase in epidermal thickness and collagen production in a facial image analysis, and a significant reduction in wrinkles after 12 weeks. Its amazing results put it firmly on our list of the top 8 skincare tips to combat skin ageing
Who would benefit most from using retinol?
Retinol can work wonders on many skin types, and is most effective on:
- Those with mild to moderate acne who want an ingredient to calm inflamed skin, unclog pores and fade acne scars
- Those with sun spots and other types of hyperpigmentation who would like a more even skin tone
- Those with signs of skin ageing, such as thin skin, fine lines and wrinkles, who would like to achieve smoother, tighter skin over time
Aside from children, most people can use retinol, but it is always best to speak to your Skin Expert before you start to find out the best formulation for your skin's needs.
Myth #1: Stop using retinol if you experience redness or peeling
Retinol is known for the side effects that occur when you initially begin using it. These are often mild to moderate side effects that usually only last a few weeks, and they can include:
- Redness
- Skin peeling or flaking
- Skin irritation
- Dryness
- Itching or burning
Not everyone will experience one or all of these side effects when starting a retinol treatment, but they are relatively common during the adjustment period as your skin gets used to your treatment. After around 2-4 weeks, you’ll notice these side effects calm down, so despite what people may say, you do not need to stop using the product – it’s best to have patience as your skin acclimates and gets used to the retinol product. However, you should stop using the product if you experience intense skin irritation.
Also, remember to avoid the sensitive areas around your nose, mouth and eyes, as these spots often experience the most dryness. When using a retinol product, the body's natural body heat will ensure these areas are covered without direct application.
You can discuss any concerning side effects with your Skin Expert so they can either recommend a different product or recommend application tips to help make the adjustment period easier.
Myth #2: Retinol, retinoid, retinal… they’re all the same!
You may have heard lots of slightly similar words to retinol, but we’re here to clear up the rumours; retinol, retinoids, retinal and all the rest, are all different. They are, however, from the same family.
The term retinoid is an umbrella term for several vitamin A-based ingredients used in skincare. These include retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinoic acid and more. All are popular skincare ingredients for their age-defying properties, but they all play a slightly different role, which is why it’s so important for your Skin Expert to weigh in on the best product type and percentage that will work best for you.
Many different retinoids are effective in different areas of skincare. For example:
- Tretinoin is best for clearing troublesome acne
- Retinol is best for improving skin texture, hyperpigmentation, dryness and fine lines
- Retinal is best for improving the texture of skin and appearance of fine lines
- Tazarotene is best for psoriasis, acne and hyperpigmentation
Retinol is known to help increase skin cell production and collagen production which can improve things like blocked pores, rough skin and signs of photoaging.
You can read more in our article, ‘Retinols vs. Retinoids: What's the difference?’
Myth #3: Retinol causes sun damage
It is widely believed that retinol causes skin to be more sensitive to the sun, but this is only half true. Retinol works to increase your skin cell turnover by removing dead skin cells and producing new ones. Because they are brand new, these cells can be more susceptible to sun damage, but the likelihood of redness or sunburn is low.
The reason we recommend using at least a broad spectrum SPF 30 product or higher when outside after applying retinol is to protect these new cells from damage – which is the whole point if you are using retinol to reduce signs of photoaging.
Another reason is that UV radiation degrades vitamin A, which causes your retinol product to become less effective in the sun. You want to avoid paying for a retinol product and then cancelling out its effectiveness by going in the sun – very counterproductive!
Myth #3: Retinol causes sun damage
It is widely believed that retinol causes skin to be more sensitive to the sun, but this is only half true. Retinol works to increase your skin cell turnover by removing dead skin cells and producing new ones. Because they are brand new, these cells can be more susceptible to sun damage, but the likelihood of redness or sunburn is low.
The reason we recommend using at least a broad spectrum SPF 30 product or higher when outside after applying retinol is to protect these new cells from damage – which is the whole point if you are using retinol to reduce signs of photoaging.
Another reason is that UV radiation degrades vitamin A, which causes your retinol product to become less effective in the sun. You want to avoid paying for a retinol product and then cancelling out its effectiveness by going in the sun – very counterproductive!
Myth #4: You need to use a lot of retinol to see results
While many people believe slathering on as much retinol as possible is likely to increase their results and improve skin faster, in reality a little can go a long way. It’s not about how much you use, it’s about the frequency.
Your Skin Expert can talk you through the exact routine you should use to gain the very best results with minimum side effects. This may mean starting with one pump and building up to 2 or 3 over time.
You can watch Dr Julia’s video on the best way to apply retinol here
Myth #5: Retinol thins the skin
Another myth about retinol is that it thins the skin, and this comes from the (true) fact that retinol does remove dead skin cells on the topmost layer of skin. However, studies have shown that overall, the opposite may be true. One study found participants using retinoic acid and retinol treatments for 4 weeks showed an increase in epidermal thickness, and upregulated genes for collagen type 1 (COL1A1) and collagen type 3 (COL3A1) in their facial image analysis.
Another study found retinoids to be one of the most effective ingredients available to address skin ageing, with signs such as thin and crepey skin seeing amazing results.
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Myth #6: People with sensitive skin shouldn’t use retinol
Retinols have developed a reputation as a particularly harsh ingredient causing redness and peeling, and therefore have always been thought of as unsuitable for those with sensitive, easily irritated skin. The truth is, although they can aggressively tackle signs of skin ageing, there are many different types and strengths out there, and many people find there is a retinol product available to suit their skin concerns and needs – even with sensitive skin.
Those with sensitive skin can still use retinols if they so wish, however we recommend having a free consultation with one of our Skin Experts first to ensure you are using the best product for you and getting the application frequency right.
Myth #7: The higher the percentage, the better the results
Retinol percentages can be a little confusing, but the general consensus is that the higher the strength of retinol the better your results will be; this is not true.
There are lots of different products on the market containing different percentages of retinol, and each is prescribed to tackle a specific skin issue or reach a goal. Your Skin Expert can advise on the best one to choose to achieve the results you would like to see from your skin, and you may find this won’t be the highest percentage.
For example, tretinoin can be used in concentrations of 0.01% to 0.4% when being used to clear acne, while retinol can be used in concentrations of 0.0015% to 0.3% to improve skin texture, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines, and tazarotene can be used in concentrations of around 0.05% to 0.1% to tackle psoriasis and acne vulgaris.
What products in the Face Dr range contain retinol?
If you are looking for a retinol product to try, we recommend speaking to one of our Face Dr Skin Experts for free to find out what the best product might be for your skin's needs. We have highly effective, premium products in our range, such as:
1. ZO Retinol Skin Brightener: Available with 1%, 0.5% or 0.25% retinol, and formulated to target hyperpigmentation, brighten skin, provide antioxidant protection to support natural cell turnover, and more.
2. Obagi Retinol 1.0: This product uses a gradual retinol delivery system to gently release ingredients that help to minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This system also helps reduce irritation, so it’s perfect for sensitive skin.
3. ZO Radical Night Repair: This formula helps improve skin brightness, reduce the appearance of brown spots and boost antioxidant protection against free radical damage. Its 1% retinol improves texture, pigmentation, and fine lines and wrinkles.
4.ZO Wrinkle + Texture Repair: This high-potency retinol-based product helps reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles, while smoothing skin texture and improving skin function to retain hydration.
5. ZO Daily Power Defense: This lightweight serum contains retinol, antioxidants and DNA repair enzymes to tackle environmental stressors, improve skin texture, soften fine lines/wrinkles, strengthen the skin barrier, and boost collagen and cell renewal.
6. ZO Brightalive® Skin Brightener: This non-retinol formula is a great alternative to retinol which helps to brighten and even skin tone, reduce dark spots, soothe and calm irritated skin, restore hydration, and prevent future damage.
Summary: Should I start using retinol?
Starting a retinol routine can feel like a big decision, so we always recommend working with one of our Skin Experts before you begin so they can assess your skin history, irritations, allergies and skin goals, and help you get through your skin’s adjustment period.
If you want to refresh your skin and see real, noticeable changes in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, or tackle acne, retinol could be for you – our clients have had fantastic results. By working with one of our Skin Experts, you can learn more about retinol and how to avoid its side effects.
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